My 11 day Big Island Of Hawaii Itinerary
- Daniella Nacad
- Dec 11, 2022
- 20 min read
This trip was taken on September 2022.
Day 1: Travel Day
Travel day is here! We are starting to think we should be moving to the West Coast. We would cut our travel time in half!
Day 1 as usual is set aside for travel. We had our layover in LA. If you are not a Delta Sky Club Member or an Amex (platinum) holder, this is your sign to start looking into both options! Having access to the Delta lounges has been a game changer for long layovers. The LA Delta Sky Club was particularly fancy, and the perfect place to stretch our legs, as well as have lunch before our last leg of the trip.
We ended up arriving at Kona International Airport (KOA) at night, which had its very own advantages! KOA is an "open air / outdoors" airport, meaning no air conditioning system. So if heat tolerance is a problem for you (like it can be for me!) plan on arriving and departing at night. You can thank me later!
The downside of this is that, between the late arrival, car pickup, plus drive to the hotel and checking -in, the majority of nearby restaurants were closed. Pack some light snacks for that first night if possible. Not fruits, since you can not bring them into Hawaii from the mainland.
We divided our trip into three sections since the Big Island is, well, very big!
We stayed the first couple of days in the northern area of Waikoloa on the Kona Coast. This is the "sunny" and much less rainy side of the island.
There are many beautiful hotels in the area that greatly vary on price. They are all located rather close and have very similar amenities. We stayed at the Ocean Tower Hilton Grand Vacations Club - Waikoloa. This hotel is humongous. It has three pools, a dolphin show, a sea water inlet where you can paddle and kayak, multiple restaurants, sunrise yoga classes. I mean, this hotel is so big, that they have their own tram and boat to transport you from the main lobby, to your tower. We loved it. The only thing it's missing is direct access to the beach. The closest beach to the resort would be A-Bay ('Anaeho'omalu Beach).
If staying at this hotel, do take into account that the time it takes to get to the parking lot from the Ocean Tower is roughly ~25-30 minutes and that the parking fee is $40 / night. We just factored this time into our daily plans and it did not impact our trip on the slightest.
We went to bed that night with the sounds of so many birds in the little garden within the tower. Its was a great travel day and start to our vacation.
End of Day 1.
Day 2: Exploring Kona
The other very popular area to stay on the Kona coast is the district of Kailua-Kona. Located slightly more south along the coast, Kailua-Kona is home to a very vibrant downtown and older (even historic) hotels. Depending on your interests, Kona is definitely also a great place to stay. Waikoloa is closer to the northern areas (Hawi and the Kohala Forest) and the most popular white sand beaches. Kailua-Kona, on the other hand, is closer to the south of the island which makes trips to the popular green and black sand beaches (Papakolea and Punalu'u respectively) easier as a day excursion.
Given that we were staying on the Waikoloa area, a day trip to the Kailua-Kona District was needed.
We started the day driving south and watching how quickly the landscape changed from dry, flat and volcanic to lush and mountainous. We headed for breakfast at a cute and quirky place called The Coffee Shack. This shack offers not only amazing breakfast and pastries, but also has stunning views of the Kealakekua Bay (where Captain Cook Monument is). We ordered Ono Benedict Eggs, a Mixed Veggie Omelet and a Papaya Boat to share (half papaya filled with fruits, lilikoi yogurt and coconut! - The fruits on the island are just beyond delicious!). FYI - The Coffee Shack is closed Wednesdays, and parking is very limited.
After finishing our breakfast, we headed back down the mountain to Pu'uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park. This is a beautiful and sacred place on the island, where you can find archeological sites featuring reconstructed villages and burial grounds. It is $20 per vehicle to enter, but free with your America the Beautiful annual pass.
After, there are a couple of activities you can do close by. If you wish to snorkel from the beach, Two-steps in Honaunau Bay (a very popular place for beginners to snorkel on the island) is right next door. You can get changed if need be at the Historical Park restrooms, but keep in mind that you can not use their parking area to go snorkeling.
Another option is driving a bit further north to Kealakekua Bay, where Captain Cook monument is. The white monument marks the place where the English explorer was killed in 1779. The area around Captain Cook monument is also considered one of the best places to snorkel on the Big Island of Hawaii. There are different options to get there. You can hike, take a boat ride or rent a kayak (you can also take a kayak tour - which I don't believe is necessary). There are many companies in the island that will offer tours. There is a shop close by called Kona Boys that offers both full day kayak rentals (for $99 - you have to take the Kayak from their shop ~ 15 min away to the bay which to me did not sound that convenient) and kayak tours (will meet guide and your kayaks on the water). There was also a tiny, pretty informal place, by the opposite side of the bay (I do not have an address, but it is where Manini Beach Road meets Kahauloa Road - and if you open google maps you can find them under Ehu and Kai Adventures / Islander Party Rentals) where they rented us a double kayak for $60, right on the water. We did not need to rent snorkeling gear since that is the one thing that never left the car during our entire Hawaii trip.
Things to take into account regarding renting kayaks or boards in Hawaii: make sure they are registered vessels (they must have an identifying sticker of sorts), do not dock on beaches if specifically instructed not to do so (when kayaking out to Captain Cook Monument, you can not dock your kayak and should either tow it with you while snorkeling or alternate who stays on the kayak if you rented a double), and please avoid touching corals or harassing wildlife.
Kayaking to Captain Cook Monument from the shop takes roughly 20 minutes (~1 mile each way). We spent maybe an hour exploring the corals and wildlife and enjoying the view of the cliffs on the bay. After returning the kayak, we headed further north to Kona for lunch. We decided to stop at a very popular restaurant called Umeke's which was seriously amazing. We ordered fish tacos and the Ahi Katsu (which was probably my favorite dish of the entire trip). After we were done, we want back to the hotel to catch the sunset. The sunsets on the west side of the Island are of course unbelievable - so make sure you take time to appreciate them. The Hilton Grand Vacations Club has many hammocks and lounging chairs where you can relax and enjoy the view. It was the perfect way to end our day.
End of Day 2.
Day 3: The North of the Island.
We had another early wake up call! Today we head north past the Kohala Mountain Range all the way to the Pololū Valley. This valley is carved within the rugged and ancient Kohala coast and you can appreciate its beauty from the lookout or by hiking down to the black sand beach. It is worth mentioning that parking is extremely limited. There were probably 5 cars by the time we got there at ~ 8 AM, and there was space for maybe 3-4 more. Keep in mind that the drive from Waikoloa (specifically from our hotel) and taking the scenic drive via Highway 270 is almost an hour. There is some parking out on the street, but it is also limited and there are many "no parking" signs along the residential areas.
We of course decided to hike down to the black sand beach. The area has no restrooms and no reception, so plan accordingly. The trailhead is called Awini Trail, which takes you all the way over to an overlook of the next valley. The hike down is fairly easy, but steep (300 ft elevation loss), and has multiple overlooks from which you can enjoy the views of the valley and the northern Kohala coast. The trail down to the beach is only ~0.5 mile out-and-back, and the hike up is considered moderate, so take plenty of water.
Also, keep in mind that while the beach is public property, all the area north of the river (which is corded off) is private. There are many "no trespassing" signs, so it will be easy for you to stay off private lands. This black sand beach is made up of mostly polished lava rocks, and its water is extremely dangerous, so swimming is highly discouraged. Look for the rope swings close to the river, and hang at the beach for a while (maybe enjoying some breakfast!)
After hiking back up to our car, we drove through the incredibly green Koala Mountains via the Kohala Mountain Road to the small town of Waimea. There, we stopped for lunch at The Fish and The Hog (very popular for its BBQ pork!) where we had the best beer-battered onion rings I've ever had, as well as poke nachos and a shoyu poke bowl.
After lunch, we started to drive back to Waikoloa and stopped at the Waikoloa Queens' Marketplace. This is a really nice open mall with a few restaurants, nice local shops and a beautiful photography gallery. After the sun was low enough, we headed over to Kiholo Bay in search of Green Sea Turtles! The beach at Kiholo bay is one of the best places to watch turtles, and the walk from the gravel road parking lot to the shallow pools is ~ 1 mile each way. Keep in mind that the gate to the parking area is closed at 7 PM. On our way back, after seeing at least 5 turtles, we encountered many wild goats on the road while also watching the sun set. We drove back to the hotel for dinner at the Italian Nui Restaurant - which exceeded our expectations and was not extremely overpriced!
End of Day 3.
Day 4: Is a trip to Hawaii complete without Scuba Diving?
Needing to take advantage of finally being on an island, we booked an advanced scuba diving morning trip with Big Island Divers in order to explore the aquatic life in Hawaii. The views were stunning both in and out of the water. We were able to spot dolphins, Hawaiian Monk seals, and all sorts of colorful fish and corals in our dives, as well as had stunning views of the Haleakala volcano located in the neighboring island of Maui. The dive masters and crew were knowledgeable and taught us very much about marine life.
The boat leaves and docks back in Kona, and once we were done with our morning activity we headed over to the highly recommended Da Poke Shack where we had incredible Shoyu ahi poke for lunch. Afterwards, we drove to the Coconut Grove Market place for dessert, where we had a shave ice at Gecko Girlz! They have so many flavors, but we picked the Cherry Blossom which had macadamia nut ice-cream, Kauai cherry syrup, Kula strawberry syrup, sweet cream snow cap and coconut mochi!
After walking around the open market, we headed back to the hotel for some R&R. We decided to take a full afternoon to enjoy some of the amenities the Hilton Grand Vacation had to offer. We were finally able to catch the commuter boat inside the hotel and had a wonderful view of the gardens on our way back to our tower. Spent the late afternoon swimming around the pool and lounging on the cliffs while watching the sun set.
End of Day 4.
Day 5: A very busy day!
Early wake up call! We have a very packed day today since we not only had a few activities booked, but were also moving into an AirBnB in Waikoloa Village.
We ordered breakfast at the opposite end of the hotel, closer to the parking lot. Both the Lagoon Tower and the Ocean Tower have a Waikoloa Coffee Co. shop that serves Honolulu Coffee. Our favorite coffee was the Hawaiian Style Latte (which we were not able to find elsewhere!). This coffee is made with macadamia nut and coconut syrup and is honestly amazing as long as you like your lattes very sweet (like I do!). We got coffees and acai bowls to go and headed to Hapuna Beach to enjoy our breakfast with a view and take an early morning dip in the ocean. We stayed at the beach for a couple of hours and had it mostly to ourselves.
We then headed back to the Hilton, packed our bags, and drove north to the Kohala Na'alapa Stables for a two-hour horseback riding tour of the Kahua Ranch, which offers stunning views of the Kohala Mountain range and the ocean.
Kahua Ranch is one of the oldest working ranches in Hawaii. Contrary to what many travelers believe, Hawaii is so much more than beaches! Hawaiians have an incredibly diverse culture, and the Paniolo "cowboys" have a very important role in it. King Kamehameha III invited cowboys from Spanish California in 1823, in hopes that they would teach Hawaiians cattle handling skills. The cowboys were called "Espanoles" (Spaniards) which the native Hawaiians pronounced as "paniolos", and thus Hawaii is now home to many incredible ranches that are worth exploring!
Horseback riding in Hawaii was certainly one of the highlights of this trip. The weather was -luckily- perfect. The horses are very well taken care of and the staff running the ranch is wonderful. I am not an experienced horseback rider by any means, and they were able to pair me up with a horse that was appropriate for my skill level, as well as desire to canter and gallop safely. We took in the stunning and lush green mountains while learning about horses, the Paniolo culture, their work on the ranch and galloping over hills and by cattle.
After finishing with our activity, we headed towards Waimea for some quick lunch! We stopped at a placed called Taco Rosa which had pork and shrimp tacos. If you are not really into Mexican food there is another small shop next door called Pau Pizza, where you can buy some slides, soups and salads to go!
Then, we started the ~50 minute drive to the Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station (VIS). For all your travel plans on the Big Island make sure to take driving times into account, and specifically do so when planning a visit to Mauna Kea. Mauna Kea is a dormant volcano, and the highest point in the state of Hawaii. Some authors label it the "highest mountain on Earth" standing at ~33,500 ft when measured from its base deep in the ocean. It's summit is 13,803 ft above sea level, and is one of the few places where you go from sea level to such high altitude in a short period of time (~ 1.5 hr). For this reason, when intending to visit the summit, there is a mandatory acclimation stop of 30-45 min at the VIS located at ~ 9,000 ft.
There are tours that offer day trips to Mauna Kea, and you can definitely book those. We decided to drive ourselves since we rented a Jeep Wrangler 4x4. You will not be allowed to drive to the summit if you don't have a 4x4 vehicle. Children under 13 years and pregnant individuals are also not allowed to go on the last stretch of the drive. Vehicles are allowed to start the drive up to 30 minutes prior to sunset (and it takes roughly 30 min to reach the summit from the VIS), and once the sun has set everyone will be asked to drive back down to the VIS (tours included).
Once back down at the VIS stay a while until most vehicles have left, and enjoy stargazing. Mauna Kea hosts observatories at its summit (for that reason no one is allowed there after dark) given that the natural conditions of the mountain (height, lack of light pollution, dry atmosphere and minimal disturbances) are optimal for astronomical research. Tip: we always travel with our JetBoil Flash, and had a delicious hot chocolate while enjoying the view of the Milky Way!
You can either stay on your car at the parking stop, or cross the road and head up the mountains on the opposite side! The views are spectacular, regardless of where you are.
Take care driving back down from the mountain, since there is usually very poor visibility due to the clouds and fog.
End of Day 5.
Day 6: Waikoloa and the Rays!
Took the morning really slow today! Woke up to catch the sunrise at the Fairmont Orchid Hotel beachfront, and later drove around Waikoloa a bit. Had a quick lunch at Loko Wraps, and then headed to the Marina for our Manta Ray Evening Dive / Snorkeling experience.
This is one of the activities that we wanted to do the most while planning the trip. My husband ended snorkeling (being congested and couldn't equalize while diving) while I did the two-tank dive with Big Island Divers. I think this provided us with a good way to compare both activities, since there is a lot of debate regarding which is the best way to see the manta rays.
The scuba diving experience was good. I think that if you want to scuba dive once in the trip, this is the way to go. If you have scuba dived in other locations prior to the manta cove, then you will find that the dive sites tend to be somewhat similar. I do have to admit that the experience was worth it since close to the end of the first dive we saw 4-5 manta rays and a sting ray in really close proximity while we were actively moving around (very different from what you would experience during the night dive - we'll get to that shortly).
After the first dive, you surface for ~ 45-50 minutes while the sun is setting, have some snacks and enjoy the view. You will then see a TON of boats arrive to the same exact location and start setting boards for the snorkelers and lights to attract the manta rays.
The mantas come to this location because they are used to being fed there. The lights that are placed attract plankton and they see at least one manta ray ~80-90% of the nights. The largest manta ray in the island spans 16 ft, and around 120 manta rays call the Big Island its home.
While the snorkelers will stay in the surface, the scuba divers go to a "campfire" at the bottom of the ocean. This dive is not deep, and you will not be swimming around. The dive masters will set you in a large circle surrounding the lights and you literally just breathe, hold onto the rocks, and wait for the mantas to appear. It gets really cold fairly quickly. I was honestly freezing after 20 min from the lack of movement. We did see at least 4 manta rays! They swim and backflip right next to / above you while they feed on the plankton. It really is mesmerizing! Bonus points if a ginormous moray eel decides to crawl all over your hands while in pitch darkness (yes, that did happen to me! and I can't say I loved it)
On the other hand, the mantas did seem to stay closer to the surface - where the snorkelers were - for longer periods of time. It was also not as cold up there and the mantas were equally close to you (just underneath you vs above you while diving). The downside is the amount of people and the noise from people talking. Also, some snorkelers become seasick - and well.. you might get caught swimming in vomit. I don't think it happens frequently, but it definitely happens.
Overall, both experiences were wonderful. Neither of us felt we missed out from not doing the other activity. When choosing to either snorkel or scuba dive you really can't go wrong.
After, we headed back to the lovely AirBnb we had moved into the night before, and had an amazing "homemade" poke with fresh fish and seaweed salad we bough at the KTA Superstore.
End of Day 6.
Day 7: Let's go to the other side of the island!
Moving out of our AirBnb was so sad! I can't honestly recommend the Waikoloa area more than I do! We had beautiful sunny days and there are so many things to do! Nonetheless, we were still very excited to explore Hilo and Volcano over at the East side. One downside of scuba diving is that you can not leave the area of Kona-Waikoloa until you have cleared 18 hr post-dive. We had NO idea the Big Island changed so much in elevation, and we had to figure out what to do until 2PM and the nitrogen was out of our bodies.
It took us ~85 minutes to go from Waikoloa to our hotel over at Hilo via the saddle road. When choosing where to stay we knew wanted to stay as immersed in the green lush rainforest as possible, and we found a perfect off-the-grid and eco-sustainable stay at The Inn at Kulaniapa Falls. During our research, I had a really hard time finding a waterfall we could swim at. Given that the Kulaniapa Falls are in private property, they actually allow you to explore the area to its fullest as long as it is safe. They offer kayaks and paddle boards at no additional cost, you can hike down and go for a swim, and even rappel down the falls for an extra fee. I you are not staying with them, they also offer a day pass ($49 for adults and $29 for children under 9 yr) so you can enjoy the falls!
After dropping our luggage we decided to drive around Hilo. Nighttime was rapidly approaching, but we stopped briefly at the Kaumana Caves (we shall return to this site later!) and then headed to downtown Hilo for dinner. We stopped at Pineapple's after reading so many positive reviews on this location. I have to agree with everything said about this restaurant! The food was delicious, and the atmosphere was relaxed. There was a huge wait time though, so either get there early or try to make reservations in advanced! We ended up snatching a couple of seats by the bar, which worked perfectly for us!
End of Day 7.
Day 8: Around Hilo
Waking up to the roaring sound of the waterfall and tons of birds is how we should wake up every single morning!
We immediately headed down to the waterfall and enjoyed it until it was time for breakfast. The Inn at Kulaniapa Falls has breakfast included, and they offer locally grown / harvested food. I am still craving the fresh squeezed guava juice they served!
After breakfast, we went out to Hilo to see even more waterfalls. We decided to go visit Akaka Falls State Park, home to the very popular 442 ft Akaka Falls that plummet into a stream-eroded gorge. The hike is ~0.4 miles uphill and paved (with a ton of stairs). You do have to pay to park and per person. There is a pay station that accepts cards, and the cost is $5 p/p and $10 to park.
Tip: There is a local market right on the exit of the State Park that offers fresh coconuts and pineapples! We needed the refreshing beverage and recommend stoping!
We then stopped at the very popular Hilo Farmers Market where you can find even more locally grown fruits and vegetables, tropical flowers and local crafts perfect to take back home! The Farmers Market is open daily, but the "big" markets are hosted Wednesdays and Saturdays. Another quick and great stop is The Lili'uokalani Gardens, the largest, authentic Edo-style ornamental garden outside of Japan.
Afterwards, we headed to the Kaumana Caves to explore some more. We stumbled upon a group that was going to explore the underground trail - which we weren't aware of even existed! So thankful that we did, because the lava tube is amazing! This lava tube is part of the 1881 Mauna Loa eruption and currently travels underneath private property. The opposite end of the lava tube actually opens up to the private area, so make sure you stay on the trail, and exit the way you came in! Take a good headlamp or flashlight (definitely would't recommend trying to use your phone's light only). This was our favorite "hike" of the trip! and in my opinion, it is a much better and less crowded experience than the very popular Nahuku "Thurston" Lava Tube within the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
We then did some quick grocery shopping (highly recommend getting food in Hilo if you will be staying over at Volcano since shops there are very limited) and headed from Hilo to the town of Volcano, where we stayed at my favorite AirBnB for the trip. We unpacked, had a late lunch, and made our way to the Hawaii Volcanoes National park.
We waited until ~9PM to go view lava, since it is apparently extremely busy between 5-9 PM. From the places we explored, the best viewing site is from Devastation Trail. Head over to the Devastation Trail parking lot and follow the signs that say "Lava Viewing". You will walk on a paved road almost all the way. The trail is ~ 1mile long, and only the last short section is unpaved. Take a headlamp, rain gear and a jacket or sweater because temperatures in Volcano also tend to be on the cooler side at night.
We also walked to the Kilauea Overlook, which was deserted compared to Devastation Trail.
At the time of this trip the Kilauea volcano was actively erupting. Its glow is best seen at night or right before sunset. The active area within the Kilauea Caldera (Halema'uma'u Crater) was small, but the glow and lava were still visible. Some people took binoculars and their professional cameras to see the activity much better. As of December 2020, the Mauna Loa Volcano is also erupting, and its glow can also be appreciated from multiple overlooks across the park. The recommendation is to always check with the park rangers for current conditions and best viewing sites, and monitor the National Park website for closures.
End of Day 8.
Day 9: Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
We decided to dedicate a full day to the National Park. I do believe that if you plan accordingly, you can explore most of the popular locations in a single day. This makes day trips from Hilo or Kona/Waikoloa a possibility.
We decided to first stop at the Thurston Lava Tube, which is a fairly quick stop, and then head over to the Mauna Ulu Eruption Trail and Napau Trail to explore the landscape that was formed in a five-year eruption from the Volcano (1969-1974). The hike is 2.5 miles and rated as moderate, but you can definitely explore for the amount of time you decide. As soon as you park on the trailhead, you will be able to access the 1969 fissure and a massive lava field, which is mind-blowing.
After exploring the area, we decided to drive the Chain of Craters Road all the way down to the ocean and the Holei Sea Arch. The drive is beautiful and there are multiple crater overlooks and petroglyph areas you can stop at on the way.
The only day we had really bad weather was this day! So we took the late afternoon and night to relax and enjoy our Airbnb.
Other hikes and activities that are recommended are the Kilauea Iki Trail and Pu'upua'i, as well as making dinner reservations at the Volcano House.
End of Day 9.
Day 10: The South of the Island
Woke up very early to explore the stunning Punalu'u Black Sand Beach prior to heading back to Waikoloa. The sunrise from this volcanic beach was my favorite from the entire trip. Usually, you can find Honu (Green Sea Turtles) sunbathing in the afternoon here as well. Visiting Punalu'u is absolutely a must do activity if you are planning a trip to the area of Volcano / Volcanoes National Park. To get to Punalu'u from Volcano, take Hwy 11 towards Kona and turn towards the ocean between mile marker 56 and 57. There are two small parking areas, and they were entirely empty the day we visited for sunrise. If you plan to stay for a while, you can then visit the famous Punalu'u Bakery, or even make a trip to Papakolea AKA The Green Sand Beach and the Southernmost Point in the United States. We weren't able to fit this into our schedule, but will definitely have it as a reason to return to the Big Island!
Said goodbye to the most lovely AirBnb...
And we drove all the way back to Waikoloa, where we stayed at the Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa for our last night! We picked this hotel so we could spend our last day relaxing and enjoying beautiful amenities. We also booked their Sunset Luau for that night and found it to be extremely convenient to be staying on property. The Luau includes an open bar and buffet. We really enjoyed the food, music and dancing! The Luau is only open Mondays and Wednesdays, so if interested plan your trip accordingly.
End of Day 10.
Day 11: Traveling back home.
We booked a 9PM return flight which was extremely convenient for multiple reasons.
First of all, given that we were staying at the Waikoloa Beach Marriott, we had direct access to a beautiful white sand beach referred to as "A-Bay" otherwise known as 'Anaeho'omalu Beach. We enjoyed breakfast at the hotel, and spent the entire morning between the infinity pool and the ocean.
We upgraded to a late checkout, and then headed down to Kona to buy last-minute gifts and have a late lunch at Umeke's. We headed to the airport after sunset, which also worked in our favor since - if you remember correctly - the KOA Airport has an "open air / outdoors" concept, which in the Hawaiian heat is frankly terrible.
Sad as usual to say goodbye to Hawaii! but time to head back home and plan new adventures.
End of Day 11
Cheers and Keep on Vacationing!
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